COVES, CLIFFS AND CRACKING HISTORY
This peaceful circle walk on the Yorkshire Coast is a history tour like no other
Hayburn Wyke is tucked away between trunks of cliff, close to the village of Cloughton. The area’s magic lies in its rocky Jurassic coastline, clear blue water, and calming isolation.
However, the luxury of a country pub a ¼ mile away doesn’t go amiss.
This mild yet satisfying trod is a walk of two halves. Along the coast, a stunning cliff path guides walkers down onto Hayburn Wyke Beach, before a second path inland makes for a gentle finish via disused rail track.
DEAR DIARY…
“The Yorkshire Coast loves a grand reveal.
In fact, these cliff paths have a knack for pulling up one of the most beautiful views in England out of the blue, literally. The first time I came across Hayburn Wyke was one of those special moments where you can feel attachment forming. Almost like you’re reflecting in that moment through the eyes of your older self.
I was 22, fresh out of university, and dragging my partner Lauren up the coast from Scarborough to Saltburn.
It was mid-summer. The evening sun was hazy, and warm light had lulled us into a steady march across the grassy fields above Scarborough. We could have been sampling tapas and lager on a searing patio… but who in their right mind would do that?
An inexperienced hiker, and kitted with a bag old enough to have been dropped over Arnhem, Lauren was already calling for our evening halt in Ravenscar. Unable to comfort her with anything more than I was reading on signs, I was becoming increasingly concerned we may have bitten off more than we could chew.
I was expecting revolt at the next undulation.
As we descended through bands of silver birch, Lauren’s eyes panned to me. ‘I thought you said there was hardly any climbing,’ she moaned as we began to drop into the wyke.
‘I said there was hardly any STEEP climbing,’ I hit back, hastily plastering over any previous promises. I always undershoot how much is ahead by habit.
Stepping onto the beach, I was sure Hayburn Wyke was one of the most marvellous spots I’ve ever been to.
Beams of light washed the broad-faced cliffs orange as exhausted waves lapped against the rocky platforms beneath. The slapping of the stream hitting the sand, although off-key, was the percussion that brought the natural ballad to life.
A certain kind of magic exists inside the cove too…
The dense greenery was unruly and wild. Huge surfboard-sized leaves of bracken slumped over the dirt track. Behind the confines of the path, the woods were unkempt. Had it not been for the sturdy wooden stairs, fitted by Scarborough Council, we could have been 100 million years in the past.
I heard very little from Lauren for a short while. Not even as we ascended those steep stairs towards Beast Cliff.
I wonder why.”
THE WALK
Start to finish: Ravenscar Station
Map reference: OL27 North OL27 South OS 94 101
Distance: 8 miles
Time: 3.5hr
Ascent/descent: 250m
Terrain: Level coastal path and disused rail line
Parking: Roadside at the Station Cafe in Ravenscar
Facilities/toilets: The Station Cafe and The Hayburn Wyke Inn
1. Start by simply making a beeline for the coast and turn right onto the Cleveland Way heading southwards. Grassy cliff paths leads walkers through much of the coastal section of this walk.
After 200m of level walking, descend a short way to soak up views of Blea Wyke Point, a rugged cliff face, scarred with hollows. Inspecting the rocky beaches from above, note the marvellous wave-cut platform at Blea Wyke. The smooth, cracked terrace has a pleasing shape and is typical of the region.
Shortly after, the route passes Ravenscar Radar Station. These retired World War 2 structures speckle the high cliff edges, peering over the 150m drop to the sea.
The path continues above the craggy green slopes of Beast Cliff. Although unassuming, this site is the subject of intense scientific interest, due to its geology. As of 2016, there is a small herd of Highland Cattle who roam the wooded shelves. Follow the same track past Prospect House Farm and Rigg Hall Farm.
Here the path meanders as we begin to make a notable descent. Scarborough Castle can be seen ahead before dropping behind coastal hills.
On a clear day, walkers can be treated to vistas spanning as far as Filey Brigg and Flamborough Head.
Passing Red House Farm, the path descends steeply into an enclosed wooded valley, using a mishmash of wooden stairways and unstable stone slabs.
Use two small footbridges to pass over streams flowing from the dense brush of bracken behind you. Take a moment to divert onto Hayburn Wyke Beach. A waterfall dribbles onto the bouldery sands as waves massage the shore. In this secluded bay one does truly feel cut off from the rest of time.
2. Leaving the prehistoric surround, start to ascend the opposite valley wall until you reach a sign for the Hayburn Wyke Inn. A slight climb carves its way through columns of bare silver birch. Once leaving the woodland, follow the path heading left towards the back of the Inn. Here walkers can find refreshments and accomodation.
From the front of the pub, take the path leaning right, curving round to the CInder Track. Built in 1885, the former coastal railway connects cliffiside towns up the coast, however, the railway line did very little to help plans for a resort at Ravenscar take off. The line was closed in 1965 and now serves walkers and cyclists by offering a gentler way to traverse the undulating cliffs.
The full length of the line, of which it is hard to go astray on, is 18.5 miles. Keen eyed hikers may be able to see indents in the gravel where rail sleepers were laid across the path.
Head up the old line, passing through a small woodland that shadows the way and under a stout stone bridge, festooned with climbing plants.
After crossing a wooded valley with a curved embankment, go under another stone bridge and pass a gate that gives access to the former station of Staintondale. Now converted into cottages, the old station has lost little of its charm. As the way leads walkers between the disused platforms, look out for the old station clock and mid-20th century toilet signs. The soul of the station is very much still there.
The trackbed pushes on over another wooded valley, then goes through two gates where a farm track crosses the line. The woodland slowly dissapates and the sky opens up around the immediate countryside.
A final arch guides walkers back round to the old railway platform at Ravenscar station, where a pleasant little tea room is waiting to serve hot drinks and cake.
